Day 12 Huninge to Lucerne 70.19 miles

Dist 70.19miles ride time 6hr 03mins 

Av spd 11.56mph max spd 39.15mph. Altitude up 3981ft

We woke sluggishly this morning with lots of bike maintenance to do before we could leave; the rain and sandy canal towpaths had left out bikes filthy.

Today involved the first real hills of the trip. First we had to get out of the city though. 

Huninge, lies on the French side of Basel the Swiss capital, across the river is Germany, and from our campsite we could see the 3 countries bridge. We wanted to say we had been to Germany so we crossed the bridge first! We were in Germany for less than five minutes before we crossed into Switzerland. then started a stressful and busy 20 miles particularly for me navigating, to be honest it was not enjoyable at all, but we got through it without any scares.

(The 3 countries bridge (the 3 in question being Switzerland, Germany and France)

(Basel and swollen river)

(John races a team in Basel)

Because Switzerland has so few roads for its size the villages tend to be linear, this meant we could see hill and farmland but it felt like it took an age to get out into it, as all the road edges are built on. 

We finally broke into forest and out first major hill, and it was pretty major. Towards the top I found a slow worm basking on the road, I quickly took a photo then picked him up and put him off the road so he didn't become a slow worm pancake.  

At the top of the hill the views were amazing and we met a very nice Swiss cyclist who pulled over for a chat, he told us the best way to Aurau and when he said there was a big hill, we knew it would be big. He must have been around 60 and he looked fit as a butchers dog, you'd have to love cycling to nip out for a spin where he lives! 

(These 2 characters waited for John with me at the top of the big hill) 

(Here he comes now)

The roads weren't great today; a lot of traffic, so we managed to find some bike tracks instead. The big hill before Aarau was no joke, it climbed up over 1000ft with some big hairpin bends, John and I agreed to meet at the top, when I finally got up there I took my shoes off and waited for him ,I got my breath back and took in the view it is a spectacular place. I could see John making his way up the hairpins below and he made it to the top, first big hill test passed.

(A Swiss bike track)

The descent the other side was steep and fun. At Beromünster we had our last proper climb of the day, it was nothing on the Aarau one though, then after that it was down hill all the way to lake Lucerne, that's about 10 miles down hill......brilliant.

Lucerne in 6 words: stunning, expensive, wealthy, expensive and bloody expensive.  

(Lake Luzern)

(Pulling into the campsite)

It's a beautiful place with the lake and the alps and some attractive buildings, the campsite has the best facilities of any we've been to but you pay for them, it's 3x the price of any we've been to. The locals all seem to be multilingual many speaking English with an American accent. 

We settled in for our evening and the long awaited rest day tomorrow!! John got angry with his tin of ravioli though and has cut his finger, I've bandaged it up but it may require attention tomorrow.

Day 12 70.07 miles

Huninge to Lucerne, 

Lots to say about today but too tired now, will update you tomorrow ! 

X

Day 11 Strasbourg to Huningue 89.34 miles

(Tues 22nd of July 2014)

Dist 89.34m ride time 7hr53mins av speed 12.09mph max spd 20.97mph  altitude up 641ft 

Spirits were high this morning, air-con in our hotel room had meant a good nights sleep and we knew if we did a big day today we could make up the miles we lost a few days ago.

(New saddle yay!)

John has had an issue with Chamois cream, I won't go on about it but will just say he lost 3 pots of it in 3 days. So because of this he was desperate to find a bike shop in Strasbourg and replace the lost cream.  I was also keen to replace my saddle and get a few essentials for the bike such as brake pads......important! 

We found espirit cycles just round the corner from the hotel. It turned out to be a vintage city bike type shop. The only saddle that didn't resemble a leather sofa, was a little brown leather number, when I picked it up I realised it wieghed more than my bike and cost a mere 140 euros!  No cream either, but I imagine john enjoyed watching me try to explain what chamois cream is for! Maybe him losing it was a deliberate ploy for this very  end!! 

I found a decathlon about 3 miles away that would sort us out! With some difficult navigating we got there, John got some creme/gel type stuff and I got a new saddle and shorts and the brake pads.

(The barges are bigger)

This all meant we were late to leave Strasbourg and we had a lot of cycling ahead, I haven't got much to say about the journey itself, it was flat, it rained, we followed a canal for about 60miles, sometimes it was on our right, sometimes on our left, the occasional kingfisher, buzzard, field of sunflowers or huge snail caught our attention, apart from that it was just corn fields and canals.

Riding on the flat sounds easier but over such a long way it gets dull and as you're not moving so much things get sore! You can imagine what gets sore!! Also my neck froze up, which makes checking behind you difficult. 

We followed the canal Rhine et Rhone for so long we had to get on a road again so we did, it was a welcome relief.

(This for 60 miles!)

(Lots of bike paths!)

(The road offered things to look at!)

We found Boulangerie Thuet in Blodelsheim and sheltered from the rain in there whilst eating some of the finest slices of tart, served up by a fine French....Lady! Top bakery!

Finally we neared our destination a bit more canal, but this one had lots of goldeneye ducks with little fluffy babies. We entered our campsite late , about 8:30 and the little officious man took and age to sign us in then tell us exactly where out of the huge number of free spaces we must put our tent, then why we couldn't use the electric, or put our bikes in the boat house, ...........I'm saying nothing!

(John and sunflowers one of my finer photos on the go!) 

I cooked and then tucked in to a risotto I've had since Belgium, but not been able to eat because John keeps buying me dinner! Good lad! and John had a ham sandwich, now it's time for bed!! 

Day 10 Mittersham to Strasbourg 60miles

Dist 60.94miles ride time 4hr57min av speed 12.28 max speed 33.06  alt up 1,628ft 

Today was probably the best so far in terms of cycling and scenery, it rained through the night which meant we stayed in bed longer. 

It was still chucking it down when we packed up and left which made it tricky! We got on the road and the rained stopped within about 1/2 an hour, the conditions were perfect from then, cool, slight tail wind. John seemed much healthier and happier. We hit some good rolling roads outside Mittersham, and a lovely old French lady told us the way to Strasbourg even though we knew from our maps! She was a treat, a real old French Madame.

We descended into Lutzelbourg which was a fab gentle descent over about 2 miles I would guess and dropping nearly 1000ft. From here in the villages and towns were beautiful.

We stopped for lunch in Saverne, a very pretty place with a canal wharf and German looking architecture. John treated us to lunch in a really good restaurant, the nicest place we've eaten.

(Great resturant )

So with John on the mend it was my turn to feel ill! I was just very tired and struggled after lunch today.  

The riding was beautiful, flat and easy all the way to Strasbourg, which was a good job as I was falling asleep in the saddle.

(This woke me up a bit a red backed shrike right next to the tow path, we also saw loads of storks)

(John forgot his vote Ukip banner for the European Parliament) (in jest!)

Strasbourg is amazing one of the best cities I've ever been to, I had to sleep when we got to the hotel though so john went out for a look around and got food. I woke up after a good sleep and have come for a wander myself. 

It was a shame we couldn't look round together, but I had to sleep! I've recently finished possibly the best ice cream I've ever had, they did a banana sorbet! Enough said, a four piece band has turned up and they are playing Johnny cash, they are actually really tight!

(The cathedral by day)

(Strasbourg is ace)

Now I'm amongst a big crowd of tourists waiting for a light show to start on the spectacular cathedral. I won't go on any more but I will include some photos of Strasbourg.

(Ye olde n dat)

(Trams)

(A massive public bidet)

The light show was great fun, 

disneyesque.....but in a good way. 

Day 9 Metz to Mittersham 47miles

Dist 47.56 ride-time 3h56min av speed 12.05 max speed 35.55 altitude up 2089 ft 

Today was a mixed one, we left Metz very early: 6:30am I tried to get going abit before that but we were both tired.

We left early to try and make up the lost miles from yesterday. The riding was good with more favourable winds and cloud cover and Metz town centre is actually pretty impressive with old buildings and a lovely gothic looking catherdral. At that time of morning the remnants of a big Saturday night were all over the old town centre, drunk blokes being propped up by their women, it reminded me a bit of a more scenic version of Brum's broad street.

As we left Metz the countryside was much more to my liking and the people we passed very friendly.

Nearing Morhange. 

Today was a brilliant day for wildlife, there were black kites everywhere, I also saw another red backed shrike feeding its young, I stopped to sort something on the bike and as I rode to catch up with John a pair of Montagu's Harrier flew over the road and floated like gliders off over the farmland! I was more than a bit excited and John was laughing at me for being a massive goon; when I caught him up.

(Montagu's harrier)

(Otter's home)

We stopped by a ravine and saw a kingfisher and the glimpsed an otter, then later some trees sparrows......ok I'll shut up about fauna now!

In Morhange we stopped for late breakfast, I found a good little bakery, got 6 of those ice pop stick things you had when you were a kid, 4:2 in my favour! I also brought john a little savoury tart and us both what I thought were little sponge cakes.

They turned out to be bread soaked in runny treacle with some kind of custard that looked like it should've been icing! It was one of the wort things I've ever eaten half of!

(A midday nap) 

Outside Morhange John went downhill health wise, it was combined tiredness I think from 7 days cycling and the heat. I set him up the hammock in shade and he crashed out for 2 hours and I got my kindle out to read, the screen was smashed! Id left in pressed up against the camping stove!

Oh well. I took a wander into the woods to look around, staying within earshot of John. It was nice to get some down time and I heard a golden oriole but didn't  manage to spot it gutted! (Sorry fauna again) 

We got back on the bikes and revised our target campsite from Plan Incline (we are gutted as supposed to be nicest site if the trip ) to Mittersham. It's by a lake and I went for a good swim after a micro sleep , the swim felt amazing, my body was thanking me for doing some exercise that didn't involve a saddle.

(Our clothes on the line john told me to take this?!?)

We ate, washed clothes, and now it's time for bed. We are revising the trip a bit and will obviously take health as our first priority.

We hope to get to Strasbourg tomorrow. 

One last thing I forgot to mention I saw a stalk today! My first ever and a beautiful bird, I was able to get a photo:

Day 8 Luxembourg to Metz 56.58 miles

Dist 56.58mph ride time 4hr54mim avg speed 11.51 - hot day 36c 

We had our breakfast at te hotel Bristol, it was pretty good, the room had been hot and loud though so we didn't get much sleep. We rode out at about 8:15am and hit some nice countryside, lots of black kites now alongside the common buzzards. The road was rolling but mainly downhill, there was a big decent into Schengen (famous for the Schengen Agreement, want to know more?.....ask google [other search engines are available]) the descent was into a pretty valley completely covered in vineyards. 

Shade will be sought at all stops!

It was hot by now, we got to the river Moselle and started down its long bike track towards Thionville, at this point we cycled back into France. Goodbye Luxembourg.

There was a hot head wind coming up from the south making progress slow and tiresome. 

What I will say about this area of France is: only come here if you need to! 2 words spring to mind but I won't swear as this blog is open to all ages! 

We stopped under a tree for some fuel, a German man stopped his bike and asked us if we spoke German......nien! (Germany is on the other side of the river) Through broken French and some English from him we understood his wife was waiting 5km down river and he was looking for a bike shop as she had a flat tyre. I showed him a spare inner tube but it was the wrong sort so we said we couldn't help and he continued on to Schengen to try and find a bike shop. I felt bad we couldn't help him out.

(The Moselle.....not my number 1 river)

Unlike in Luxembourg and particularly Belg the people seem a lot more formal and moody, less happy to help, other cyclist don't tend to say hello or even aknowledge you! Now I realise I might be starting to sound anti French or a bit xenophobic, but I realise the small percentage of people we passed do not represent a whole nation! But they did reflect badly on this area! Finally a dad on bikes with his kids said bonjour!

We stopped on a green and ate an ice lolly and were just about to set off again when I noticed a lady sat reading on the other bench, her bike was upturned so I put 2 & 2 together and realised it was the nice German man's wife. John and I agreed that he would ride on a bit and I would help her.

It took some time but I fixed her puncture, she seemed very surprised at first and her English was only slightly better than My German, but with a bit of teamwork we fixed it and she was very grateful. 

This put me a long way behind John but only about 3miles on I saw him coming back down the bike track, the trail had fallen into the river and there was a diversion sign which John missed and I would of too as it was in French, so actually the German lady hadn't cost is much time at all! I feel we did the right thing!

At Thionville (very industrial-don't visit!) We passed some youths jumping into the river from a high bridge, I thought it would be a great photo for the blog: see below:

I was waiting for the guy on top to jump when they spotted me and started yelling stuff, I thought it was good natured at first and said Alez to the guy, he didn't jump and started shouting hey you mother f****r and other French expletives, his mates on mopeds started making towards me so I just said Fine and cleared off down the track, again not endearing me to the locals.

Entering Metz ..........

We were supposed to stop at a campsite way passed Metz but John was suffering in the heat and there was no way we would make it, so we have stopped at camping municipal Metz a nice campsite, by the river and fenced off with good facilities, and dirt cheap at 5€ for one tent! We tucked into chicken and chips at the campsite bar and did all the mandatory tasks. There are a nice family of Egyptian geese living on the bank by our tent.

Kayakers on the Moselle at Metz.

I realise I've gone on a bit so I'll sum up.

I'm abit worried about noise tonight, lots of youngsters who look like they are on kayaking tours. Looks great fun but I doubt they'll be early to bed!

So a hard not particularly fun day but John seems better after the food so here's to tomorrow. (x 4H)

Day 7 La Roche to Luxembourg. 69.21 miles

69.21 miles.  5,390 feet climbed,  average speed 10.98 mph, max speed 35.03mph.

We left the campsite early doors it looked like another pearler of a day so we tried to get some miles in before the heat. 

As we left La Roche we hit a pretty monster hill up out of the valley it went on for over a mile. The cool morning air really helped though.

We had only eaten 1 pan au chocolate each for breakfast so at Bastonge we hit the Carrefour big time! We tucked into various pastries and a baguette I also consumed 3 yogurts as I could only get a 4 pack. 

Before we ate we laid out our gear on the grass outside the shop, as the river valley had made it all wet,we must have looked a scene to passers by. 

After Bastonge we entered a little village on the belg/lux border and it had this beautiful little fountain with deep troughs of cold running water, I needed no invitation: my feet went straight in, probably not the done thing but I couldn't give a monkeys.

We hit a lovely bike track for a while through what looked like a national parc, I saw a red backed shrike, black and red kites and a honey buzzard (the shrike and HB are 2 if my all time favs).

It was a very hilly day and we didn't manage to get as far as planned before lunch and then couldn't find a shop to buy cold drinks. John was struggling with the heat by 2pm and it was important we tried to stop, finally not far outside Luxembourg City we saw a garage and stocked up on drinks. 

I strung the hammock I'm some woods near by and Mindham lay on the groundsheet and I was gone for at least an hour. Annoyingly I dreamt about work.....of all things! 

We hit the road again at 5pm another monster hill!! We stopped at a bar for John to cool down again and got chatting to a guy from Manchester (originally) who's lived here 30 years, he even offered us his back garden at one point but we declined. Maybe we should have said yes!

Another monster hill! Then down, down, down into Lux. As we entered the suburbs john tried to pull onto the pavement and took a tumble (don't worry Nicky he's ok!) he fell because the panniers are so heavy and once past a certain point you're gone! He is a bit scratched up but fine.

After that and also due to the heat I tried to convince John to look for a hotel with me! We tried a posh hotel and the man behind the desk was about to look for available rooms when his manager (the lady to his right) said sharply "no sorry we don't have any for tonight" I reckon she took one look at grubby old me with flies in my teeth and thought no chance! 

Luckily just a few doors away stood hotel Bristol! And suitably it was cheaper and less bothered about appearances. The man on reception let us lock our bikes in the carpark and we were in, twin room, nothing glam but cheap with breakfast and a proper bed. Probably doesn't work out as too much more than a campsite when you factor in the breakfast!

After a shower John hit the sack to recover and I walked round Luxembourg for an hour at sunset to take it in, nice city, very rich, lots of Ferraris etc but a nice vibe.  The crevasse in the centre with the city wall on top is a site to behold.

I have sat outside a bar had a beer and a burger and watched the city go by, shame john couldn't join me as this actually feels like a holiday at this point! 

An eventful day. X